It’s
the Baltics not the Balkans…
Tallin, Estonia & Vilnius, Lithuania
Greeting
once again!
We
just completed a visit to the upstart
countries just emerging
from behind the Iron curtain -
Estonia, Latvia, and
Lithuania. Torn between
east and
west, the Baltics are
once again spreading their
wings.
Perhaps
just a little history to better appreciate the
current situation and
the sometimes contradictory
facade.
The three countries have fought foreign
oppression throughout
the ages. Estonia, the
farthest
north, was the gateway
to the Baltic Sea, and heavily
fought over by Russia
and Sweden. Lithuania's history
is very much
intertwined with Poland's. All
three enjoyed independence in the interwar years of
1918-1940, but as a
casualty of WWII, they found
themselves deep behind
the Iron Curtain, as new
republics in the Soviet
Union. The scars are very
evident, though they
are working hard to erase them.
Each
country is slowly reverting to their true
persuaded
us to make our visit to
Highlights:
Tallinn
- An incredibly preserved medieval town. The quintessential medieval
fortress surrounded by the
remmants of its
protective wall and bastions (towers
that break the wall at
certain intervals.) Inside
the walls, is a still
thriving community hidden among
winding cobblestone
streets that date back to the 14th
century.
Aimlessly wandering among the streets,
we saw Protestant
churches, a gothic town hall, and even
a Russian orthodox
church that seemed out of place. We highly recommend a visit here,
definately the hidden jewel of Europe and primed to be the next 'in'
place to go. The Benetton was packed!
Back
in St. Petersburg, we had made the acquaintance of
Emma, an Aussie
traveler that had a very similar
itinerary.
It was great to run into her once again
in Tallinn and share a
Saku (estonian beer).
We
left Tallinn and travelled off the beaten path to the
Hill of Crosses in northern Lithuania. What
a
journey. We travelled by bus
because the train system
is
apparently in shambles, and if it is running, it
takes
twice as long as the bus. Taking
the night bus
to
Lithuania, we were dropped off in Siauliai,
a
small
town near the Hill at 3:00 am in the morning.
At this point, it's pitch black, there is no one
around,
and the bus station is closed. Oh yeah, and
its
about
35 degrees, COLD! We spy
just up the street,
a
freestanding glass ATM booth. Hurrying
over, Doug runs his card through the lock and we jump inside
to
stay warm and wait, and wait and wait.
Imagine,
if
you will, a glass enclosed ATM with Neon lights
in
the middle of a dark town. We
felt like fish
in
a bowl. Huddling to stay
warm, we sat under our
KLM
airplane blanket, hoping that we wouldn't get
thrown
out by the local police for being homeless.
Thankfully
the bus station opened at the crack
At, 8:00, the bus
leaving towards the Hill finally left.
The
Hill of Crosses -
A small hill that represents the
faith of a people in
their struggle against
oppression.
It is completely
covered, literally, by millions of
crosses in all sizes
and shapes. Large, ornately carved
wooden crosses were
strung with smaller rosaries. Small,
intricate crosses next
to large simple pipe crosses,
even crosses made out
of stones and flowers.
When
we
arrived, the hill was
eerily quiet, with only the
sound of the tinkling
metal and wood crosses swaying in the breeze.
After the short hike from the roadside, we were the first ones
there and had the hill
to ourselves. Small pathways
have been beaten
through the hill allowing you
to thread a path
through the multitudes of crosses,
stopping to admire a
particularly beautiful carving,
or a photo, or an
altar.
Even the pope left a
cross,
although his was a very
large marble cross out front.
The largest crosses on
the hill reached 25 feet
into the sky.
Many were left to commemorate loved
ones but most as an expression of nationalistic religious defiance
against the Soviet regime. In
fact, the hill was
bulldozed three times
during the Soviet occupation ,
and every time the
crosses reappeared, more and more each time.
After an hour of quiet reflection
amid the serenity of the Hill,
our cue to leave came. It pulled
up in the form of a tour bus full of
German tourists and
they invaded the hill, an army of clicking cameras.
Our
next destination, Vilnius, the capital of
Lithuania. After the hill of crosses, we boarded
a day bus to Vilnius.
A relic from Soviet era, the rickety, grimy bus slowly made its way across
Lithuania. Our 'express'
bus stopped in almost
every town, picking up and
dropping off a variety
of people, at one point even doubling as the local school
bus. Kids are the same
everywhere. There
is always a group of
boys that rush to the
back of the bus, and takeover
the entire row along
the back. We got into a
staring,
face-making contest
with them, that ended in laughter and shared, slighty stale cookies,
though we spoke not
a word of each other's language. They did
recognize
Michael Jordan's name
however and the Chicago Bulls. I
guess that is pretty
universal.
Vilnius:
City of a 1000 churches Looking
forward to a religious extravaganza, we unfortunately found them almost
all
under reconstruction,
and a good part of the city
behind scaffolding. We did managed
to get to the Hill of Martyrs, a stark assembly of three towering
crosses overlooking the city. Nevertheless, we enjoyed the
spirit of the city,
especially in the outdoor cafes,
rich with people lounging
at all times of the day, drinking, eating and enjoying the company.
One day, as we were
lounging, with Emma, our Aussie friend that we met up with again, a girl
sitting alone in the table next to us, recognized our accent and called
out to us. We invited her to join
us. Turns out, Laura is an
actress from
states I guess.
Must be on after Xena, though I had never heard of it. Laura was
all things bad about America, completely self-absorbed and utterly
ignorant of her surroundings, though I hate to bolster the stereotype.
We listened in fascination to her descriptions of this charming town, we
found ourselves in. BORING, no parties, no Americans, no cute guys that
speak english, but then again, language should not have been a barrier
to her activities. We turned down a very enticing offer to party with
the cast, no doubt, other fourth-tier actors pitifully lonely in a far
away city and not quite what their agent described so thrillingly as
Europe.
Besides
the wonderful churches, we visited the KGB
Museum, another scar
from the Soviet past. The
building housed the
interrogation and torture chambers
used by the KGB against
'enemies of the state' the
Lithuanian partisans.
It was a very sobering
experience.
To
wrap up the baltic experience, it was an
eye-opening
journey through a
fascinating region at just the right
time, when they are
savouring their independence. Not
an area of world most
people see or travel to, but
once there, the rewards
are great. One last funny
incident, on our bus
jouney from Vilnius into Poland,
we got our first
in-route movie. It was US
Marshalls
dubbed in Russian of
all things. Hilariously, they
use a single montone
male voice for the entire movie. It
made for very
interesting love scenes.
Also,
at the border, in the middle of the night, the guy next to
us,
was taken from the bus
and his belonging searched
repeatedly for over an
hour. Finally, his stuff on
the bus was taken off,
and we journeyed into Poland
without him.
We wonder what happened?
over
and out
ann
and doug
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